Building a Wooden Windbreak

by | Mar 7, 2019 | Augmented Article®, Yard Lawn Snow Maintenance

By Koper- America’s #1 Connected ContractorTM, Free Augmented Article©

7 Steps to Build a Windbreak

A wooden windbreak is one of the easiest ways to shield a sunny sitting area from chilling winter winds. It also provides shade for delicate plants that would wilt in the full sun of summer.

Tools

  1. Stakes
  2. String
  3. Spade
  4. Handsaw S. Clamp
  5. Spacing gauge
  6. Folding rule
  7. Level
  8. Drill
  9. Adjustable wrench
  10. File
  11. Hammer

Planning

  • Draw a detailed sketch to help you calculate the materials you need.
  • Plan to buy a little extra of each item to allow for waste
  •  

Materials

  1. Precast footings
  2. Gravel
  3. Sand
  4. Wood
  5. Treated Posts
  6. Framing lumber
  7. Fencing boards
  8. Bolts with nuts
  9. Galvanized nails
  10. Anchors

Step-By-Step

  1. Pull a string between end points.
  2. Set and level end footings.
  3. Use the string to set middle footings.
  4. Use the level to check consis­tency of footing heights.
  5. Set posts plumb between anchors.
  6. Construct the framework.
  7. Attach the fencing boards

Relief from the wind and the sun is the most frequent use of wooden windbreaks. They work best broadside to prevailing breezes or along two sides of a patio to shelter it from winter winds. Areas of the yard that get strong summer sun most of the day are ideal locations for windbreaks that double as sun screens.
You build the windbreak the same way you would build a section of fence. Concrete footings are used to support posts, which are joined to cross braces to form a frame. You then nail fencing boards to the frame to produce the desired pattern.
The size and spacing of the structural elements and the shape of the windbreak depend on its intended use, its immediate surroundings and the climate. If trees and bushes protect the structure

from the wind, anchoring the posts to the tops of concrete footings is sufficient. In open areas where high winds prevail, you must set the posts in the ground, with concrete poured around them. If winters are cold enough in your area to freeze the ground, you should set the posts at least a foot below the frost line.
The spacing of the footings and posts influences the look of the screen. You can vary the spacing as long as the screen remains sturdy. The wider the spacing between posts, the bigger the cross braces and the lighter the fencing boards must be.

A careful design greatly reduces the time you will need for building. A good drawing makes ordering materials and laying out footings a simple task.
The best woods to use are those that naturally resist the effects of moisture and temperature changes that occur outdoors. Redwood, cedar and cypress are typical choices of woods that also deter insects. Teak fairs well outdoors, but is a bit more expensive and is used more often for furniture. A commercially produced alternative that saves money and performs favorably is pressure treated southern yellow pine.

Laying the Groundwork

  1. Drive stakes into the ground to locate the end footings. Make sure that the stakes are firm.
  2. Attach a guide string to one of the end stakes. Pull it taut so it cannot sag. Tie it to the other end stake.
  3. Use a spade to cut a circle in the turf around the stake. This marks the hole for the footing.
  4. Remove the stake and dig the hole so the top of the footing will be a few inches above the ground
  5. Shovel several inches of sand into the hole to help set the footing. and provide bottom drainage.
  6. Set the footing in the center of the hole. Press it gently into the sand to settle it slightly.
  7. Make sure the anchors are posi- tioned parallel with the string Then level the footing
  8. Backfill the rest of the sand and dirt around the footing. Pack the . sand to fix the toàting in position.
  9. Tie the guide string to one of the anchors on the end footing. Make sure it is securely fastened.
  10. Set the second footing.
  11. Tie the other end of the guide string to the anchor of this footing.
  12. Place the level between the I I two footings to check that the height of the footings is even.
  13. Check to see that the guide I string is straight. Hold your level next to it to check.
  14. To extend the windbreak, run out more string in line with the anchors to locate the next footing
  15. Before packing sand and dirt around the new footing, check. to make sure it is level.

Mounting the Posts

  1. Fit a post in between the anchors. Push it down firmly until it sits sol idly on the top of the footing.
  2. With the post in place, clamp the anchors snugly against either side of the post.
  3. Use the level to plumb the post. Then clamp the anchors tightly to keep the post from moving.
  4. Drill a hole halfway through the post for the lower bolt. Use the anchor hole as a guide.
  5. Drill a hole for the lower bolt from the other side in the same way until you meet the first hole.
  6. Keep the clamp turned tight. Tap the lower bolt through from one side to the other with a hammer.
  7. Remove the clamp and begin tightening the first nut. Tighten it as much as you can with your fingers.
  8. Using two adjustable wrenches, hold the bolt still with one and tighten the nut with the other.
  9. Adjust the post if needed. Drill the upper holes. Install the bolt and nut as you did on the lower ones.
  10. Install the other posts the same way. Make sure the posts line up and check that they are plumb.

Tips

  • Pull a string between end points.
  • Set and level end footings.
  • Use the string to set middle footings.
  • Use the level to check consis­tency of footing heights.
  • Set posts plumb between anchors.
  • Construct the framework.
  • Attach the fencing boards

The Frost Line

The frost line is the lowest depth to which the ground freezes in winter. Fencing suppliers can tell you what it is for your area.

When ground water freezes it ex­pands and pushes up the ground over it, a process called frost heave. This causes the lumps that appear in the lawn after a hard freeze.

If you provide drainage and dig the postholes at least 12 inches below the frost line, you can keep frost heave from affecting the posts.

Completing the Windbreak

  1. Clamp a brace to an end post 6 inches from the top. Nail the brace to the posts; keep it level.
  2. Do the sane with the lower brace, nailing it to the posts and checking that it is level.
  3. Nail the first fencing board flush with the end post. Check to see that it is straight arid plumb.
  4. Nail the other end board in the same way. Use two nails through each board into the cross beam.
  5. Put a small nail on the top of each end board. Pull a string taut between them and tie it to the nails.
  6. Use the string to gauge the height of the boards. Check to make sure the spaces between boards are equal.
  7. Attach the remainder of the fence boards to the top cross beam using two nails through each board.
  8. Fasten the fence boards to the lower br4ce, taking care to duplicate the spacing above.
  9. Mount boards on the back in the same way; stagger them to cover the gaps between the front boards.

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