A Done with That® Project by Koper, America’s #1 Connected ContractorTM, Free Augmented Article©
Concrete steps offer a durable, attractive and economical alternative to steps made of wood. Making the steps is a straightforward process. Some common tools and a methodical approach yield high-quality results. Concrete steps require little upkeep, even in harsh climates, however thawing and freezing along with the use melting products in Michigan can damage or destroy steps.
Working with concrete can be easy if you prepare in advance and allow adequate time for each task. For best results, measure carefully and work methodically. Wet concrete is heavy and — once it starts to dry — hard to manipulate.
Keep in mind that extreme heat or cold interferes with the proper drying and curing of concrete, so plan to build your steps in spring or early summer. If you must work in hot weather, a simple precaution such as pouring in the cooler hours of early morning or late afternoon will help prevent complications.
Your construction plan must conform with the local building code. Also, check how far you need to dig to reach below frost level. The foundation must be sturdy and level to properly support the steps.
Make a sketch on graph paper to help you design your steps. The sketch will help you estimate materials needed for the forms and for the concrete steps, and may be required by code if the bottom of your steps adjoins a public sidewalk. The following should be considered in your design:- To be safe, steps must be comfortably and uniformly spaced. The top step, or platform, should be big enough to allow for opening the door. The steps should be at least as wide — and preferably wider — than the door.
A sturdy form is essential for well-shaped, strong steps. You make the form using lumber, nails and wire. Since the form is temporary, you do not need to use pressure- treated wood.
A typical concrete mix contains portland cement, sand, grave and water. Premixed concrete with added strengthening agents also is available. For a job this size, it is less expensive to mix your own concrete than to buy premixed concrete. Preparing a small test batch by hand lets you become familiar with the consistency of the mixed concrete. The ideal mix is wet but not runny, uniform in color, thick, and fairly smooth in texture. It should hold its shape with minimal slump or sagging and should spread smoothly without cracking.
Calculating Dimensions of Steps
Measure the width of the door and add at least six inches to determine the minimum width of the steps. To calculate the height or rise of the steps, measure from the ground level up to the underside of the doorsill. The top step or platform must be at least three feet deep to accommodate opening the door. Allowing for this space, decide how many steps you will build given the available length or run of the steps. Divide the total rise by the number of steps to obtain the height of each riser. For safety, all risers should be uniform and at least six inches but no more than
eight inches in height. Subtract the riser height from 18 to find the width or tread of each step.
Treads should be 10 to 12 inches wide. Adjust the dimensions as necessary to conform with local building codes regarding entryway steps.
Overview of the form
The form is essentially a mold that provides the shape for the concrete as it dries. The form must be strong enough to hold its shape and tight enough to prevent leaks. The form typically is braced with additional boards nailed on the front and both sides. The sides of the form are constructed so that each step, or riser, will slant slightly downward from back to front; similarly, the boards that shape the front are tilted slightly back from top to bottom. This ensures
that the finished steps will drain properly when it rains. The form does not need a back if the steps will abut a wall.
Wood used for forms must be free of obvious blemishes such as knots or cracks that could show in the finished steps.
Water or oil is used to coat the form before the concrete is poured.
Preparing the Ground
- Use a garden shovel to dig a hole wider than the door and deeper than frost level — up to 3 feet.
- Fill the hole with coarse sand or fine gravel. Rake the surface flat using the shovel
- Thoroughly wet the sand with Water sprayed from the garden hose. . Doing this settles the foundation.
Building the Form
- Measure the width of the door. Note that form dimensions are slightly larger than those of the steps.
- Nail the wood for the form together. Braces are put on the outside of the form.
- Check the height of the riser. Use the try square to angle this part of the form forward about 15 degrees.
- For drainage, steps should slope downward 1/4 inch from back to front. Reinforce the sides of the form.
- Use wire to strengthen the form. Drill 3 or 4 small holes in both sides of the form.
- Thread a continuous length of wire through the holes from one side of the form to the other.
- Place plastic sheeting against the wall below the door. Cut the plas tic at the pour line,
- Put the form in front of the door. Use a carpenter’s level to ensure correct placement.
- Seal the form to the wall with waterproof adhesive tape. The tape and plastic prevent leaks.
- To brace the form, nail additional 2x4s to the front and sides of each of the risers.
- Use pliers to pull the wire tight around the braces, strengthening the form.
Pouring the Concrete
- Use a garden hoe to mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or large metal or plastic tub.
- Coat the inside of the form with water from the hose before you pour the concrete.
- Pour and spread the concrete evenly. Begin with the bottom step and work up to the top.
- Tamp each step thoroughly, especially at the corners, to eliminate air pockets.
- Even out the surface by dragging a straight board across it. Put excess concrete on a plastic sheet.
- Use a float to smooth the concrete away from the riser and push excess off to the sides.
- Finish the surface of each tread with a trowel. The treads should be smooth, with no pits or cracks.
Curing and Finishing the Steps
- Wet the concrete.
- Cover the steps with plastic to protect them from debris while the concrete cures.
- After 5 to7 days, cut the wires and use a crowbar to pry the form away from the steps.
- Use a float to scrape risers and treads smooth. Patch holes or rough spots with fresh concrete.
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