Easy Steps to Repairing Plastic Pipes fixing Plumbing Leaks!

by | Feb 8, 2017 | Augmented Article®, Piping: Copper Plastic Pex, Plumbing

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Whether you are repairing repair or supply lines many homeowners and commercial buildings can utilize plastic pipe is an excel­lent material for installing new plumbing or adding to an existing system. Some advantages are its lightweight, joins easily, and costs less than metal. A simple set of common tools is all you need to assembly the plastic pipe. Modern day solvent cements and compression fittings create tight, permanent, and waterproof joints.

One large advantage is that plastic pipe comes in the same diameters as metal pipe. Adding on Special adapters and fittings plastic pipe can be connected to a metal system. While plastic is chemically and electri­cally inert its smooth inner diamater will not rust, corrode, accum­ulate mineral deposits, or clog as readily as metal. One note is that depending on the liquid flowing through the pipe a discoloration may become noticeable in P-traps and pressurized pipe runs.

Typically, plastic pipe comes in rigid and flexible varieties. What you will purchase depends upon the plumbing code in your area and on the function the pipe and fit­tings must serve. Rigid pipe can be used for either drain-waste-vent (DWV) or hot and cold water- supply systems, depending on the type of plastic. Flexible PVC pipe is not recommended for drain systems, the reason being is that flex pipe can have build-up in the flex ribs causing plugged drains.

Fixing Leaks in  Rigid Piping

Rigid pipe is cut with a hack­saw, personally I like to use a reciprocating saw with a fine blade or oscilating saw with plastic cutting blade. Ridge pipe is glued together with solvent cement. Most codes speci­fy that pipe and fittings of differ­ent plastics cannot be mixed in the same system. Most drain pipe is referred to as schedule 40. Pipe schedule number = 1000 x (psi internal pressure ÷ psi allowable fiber stress). Another common Pipe Schedule is Schedule 80 (usually a thicker wall) typically used in electrical conduit application for vertical external exposer. The materials require different cements and ex­pand at different rates. A typical do-it-yourself project, such as hooking up a new sink, might use rigid CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) (generally beige) pipes for the hot and cold water-supply lines and rigid PVC (polyvinyl chloride) (generally white) for the drain line.

Flexible pipe is joined with compression fittings rather than solvent cements. The most com­mon flexible pipe, PB (polybuty-lene), is used for both hot and cold interior and exterior water supply systems. It has excellent heat resistance and is very strong, but is generally more expensive than rigid pipe.

Flexible pipe is particularly suited to remodeling jobs where pipes have to be snaked through walls, floors and ceilings, and to lawn irrigation systems. Although this pipe is flexible, it can kink and should be bent only into gen­tle curves. Most recently, a cross-linked polyethylene tubing referred to PEX works great for various supply lines when used in conjunction with push-on “solderless” or crimp-on fittings. It is rigid enough to support itself on fairly long runs but it is best to use extra supports.

KEYS TO SUCCESS

Cut and dry-assemble all pipes and fittings to be sure they fit correctly before cementing in­dividual pieces.

Alignment is critical. Once you connect pieces with cement, the joint is permanent. If you make a mistake, the only option is to cut the cemented piece out and install a new one. Where angles and compromised areas are restricted the use a shark-bite fitting may work to better the strengthen the connection.

Tools
  1. Medium-grit sandpaper
  2. Felt tip pen
  3. Tape measure
  4. Miter box
  5. Hacksaw
  6. Rags
  7. Utility knifePlastic pipe
  8. Solvent cement Plastic pipe cleaner
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Over 5 ways to join plastic piping:

Joining pipes with shark-bites:

Joining PVC piping:

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